Before any purchases are made, a location for the aquarium should be selected. Once the tank is full, it should not be moved unless it is completely emptied again. Any attempt to move a full aquarium is dangerous to the person and the tank. The aquarium should be placed in an area convenient for everyday viewing but should not impede traffic flow or be near objects, such as doors, which may hit the tank. It should be away from any drafts or from windows in order to avoid direct sunlight, which can promote temperature fluctuations and the growth of algae. Sufficient access will be needed on the sides and back of tank for the placement of equipment (such as back-hanging power filters) and for maintenance. A nearby electrical source will be needed for filtration, lighting, a heater and pump. The floor should be level and able to support the weight of a full tank. An aquarium will generally weigh at least 10 to 12 pounds per gallon when full of water and substrate.

Equipment Set-Up:

1. Rinse the aquarium, substrate and any decorations very well with water. Do not use cleaners.
2. Prepare water as necessary (dechlorination, aeration, etc.).
3. Place the aquarium on the stand making sure to allow enough room for equipment and maintenance.
4. If an under gravel filter is to be used, assemble it according to the manufacturer�s directions and place it in the tank.
5. Spread the substrate over the bottom of the tank (or the under gravel filter) and add desired decorations.
6. Add water to the aquarium. Leave several inches of space from the top of the aquarium if plants will be added. The water can be poured over an updside-down bowl on the bottom of the aquarium to reduce disruption of substrate and decorations.
7. Assemble and add the filter system(s) and air pump, if applicable, according to manufacturer�s instructions.
8. Add plants, if desired, by placing their roots in the substrate bed.
9. Add additional water as needed.
10. Connect the heater, hood and lighting system.
11. Begin filter and air pump operation and let run continuously.
12. Begin cycling the filter (see below).
13. Check the ammonia and nitrite levels daily until the ammonia peak and then the nitrite peak passes, at which time fish can be slowly added to the system. Most kits will give you an expected range for both. Products are available from your local retailer to speed the cycling process.

Cycling the filter:

Selecting and Stocking Fish

Selecting Fish:

Fish Temperament

     Producing a mix of fishes that will coexist without excessive aggression, predation or other social complications can be challenging and require experience. The use of fish designated as beginner�s community tank species (see below) will assist the novice hobbyist in creating a successful mix. With more experience, the hobbyist will be able to create special communities from a wider pool of species. See Profiles of Fish.

Food Requirements

      It is important to know the food requirements prior to purchasing fish. Certain fish species require live foods or vegetable material in their diets. These fish can be difficult or expensive to maintain. The hobbyist should be informed of any special food requirements prior to purchasing the fish. Such fishes should only be selected if the hobbyist is knowledgeable and willing to provide the special diet. See Profiles of Fish.

Conflicting dietary requirements may exist for different species, so care must be taken in mixing them if the food for one species is not healthy for another. Additionally, some species with similar dietary needs should not be mixed if one species is a timid feeder compared to its more aggressive tank mates.

Another feeding consideration is the inclusion of algae and detritus (organic material) eating species (plecos and catfish). These can help maintain a cleaner tank. Conversely, plant eaters, like cichlids, may not be appropriate choices if live plants are to be grown in the tank.

Tank Strata

     Fish selections should encompass all tank strata (levels) to provide interest throughout the aquarium.

Tank Size

     The size of the aquarium is important to the types and numbers of fish selected. Large fish require large aquaria. Deep-bodied fishes like discus and angels need deep or tall tanks. Fish should not be cramped and there should be enough room for the fish to swim and maneuver with extra space for growth. It is important to realize that many fishes available in pet stores are juveniles and they may grow to many times their present length.

Generally, a tank should not appear overcrowded with fish. Too many fish put a strain on the filtering capacity (biological and mechanical) of the tank systems and the dissolved oxygen level in the water. Also, the fish may not have enough individual space which may limit feeding and growth, increase stress and compromise fish health. Moreover, high fish density makes it easier for fish pathogens to move to new hosts and cause disease outbreaks.

The general rule is one inch of fish per gallon of water. Gravel, rocks, plants, equipment and fish take up tank volume so the actual water volume will be less than the volume listed for the tank. Fish weight is more important than fish length. For example, the strain-on-system capacity of an eight-inch cichlid is far greater than that of eight one-inch tetras. Experienced hobbyists can safely maintain more biomass of fish in a tank than can a novice. A common exception to this rule is the Malawi (African) cichlid tank. A hobbyist can stock high numbers of these cichlids (up to one fish per gallon) in order to overcome the problems associated with territorial aggression. When this is done tanks require large filtration capacity and close attention to water quality.

Beginner�s Community Tank Fish
     The following are good tank mates:

• cherry barb, gold barb, rosy barb
• danio
• harlequin rasbora
• white cloud mountain minnow
• black neon tetra, head-and-tail light tetra, serpae tetra
• corydoras catfish
• ancistrus (bristle-nose) plecostomus, common plecostomus, peckoltia plecostomus
• Australian rainbowfish, dwarf rainbowfish
• guppy
• platy
• swordtail
• variatus
• kribensis
• blue gourami, dwarf gourami

Stocking Fish:

     A new tank setup should not be fully stocked with fish until the biological filters gain the capacity to handle the waste load (i.e., the tank and biofilter have cycled). A few hardy fishes can be introduced to provide ammonia wastes to feed the beneficial bacteria in the filter. Over time, more fish can be added until the full stocking is achieved. It is important to monitor ammonia and nitrite levels in the tank during this time. Partial water changes (with water of the same temperature as the tank) can be used to reduce waste levels if they become too high.

Although it is a good idea to stock the aquarium slowly for biological filtration considerations, there are social aspects of stocking as well. Territorial species should be stocked at the same time so that no individual fish has the opportunity to establish itself and then dominate new arrivals. If it is impossible to stock territorial fish at the same time, it is advisable to re-arrange the tank to disrupt territories and give the newcomer fish a chance. Otherwise, the resident fish may damage or kill the new arrival.

If the tank has been established for a while, care should be taken in adding new fish. There is often a temptation to add �just one more fish.� The hobbyist must objectively assess if the tank�s support systems can handle another fish. Also, what are the social ramifications? Are there special or conflicting nutrition requirements to consider? Lastly, any new fish should be quarantined prior to stocking to ensure that no pathogens are introduced.

Acclimating Fish

     Since water chemistry may vary greatly from one site to the next, it is extremely important to acclimate fish slowly when introducing them to the aquarium. Immediately dumping fish from the bag into the aquarium can result in the fish experiencing rapid changes in temperature, pH, alkalinity and hardness. The shock of these changes can stress the fish, resulting in lowering the fish�s immune system and making them susceptible to disease.

If possible, remove approximately 50 percent of the water from the fish bag and place an airstone in the bag. Gradually add small amounts of water from the tank where the fish will be added to the fish bag over a 20 to 30 minute period. It is important to know the water quality in the bag, particularly the ammonia and pH. If ammonia is present in the fish bag water and the pH is higher in the aquarium water than in the fish bag water, more of the ammonia will shift into the toxic unionized form, which can be detrimental to the fish. It is possible to use a commercial ammonia blocker for the acclimation period to bind any ammonia in the fish bag water.

If it is not possible to perform a gradual water change, the bag of fish should be floated in the aquarium water to which they�ll be added for at least 20 to 30 minutes or until the temperatures are the same.

Once the fish have been acclimated, they can be moved into the aquarium using a soft-meshed net. Water from the bag should not be added to the aquarium because it may have undesirable water quality (high ammonia, carbon dioxide, etc.) and may harbor pathogens.